If you are looking for a unique and adventurous way to explore a country that is full of natural beauty, cultural diversity, and historical richness, then you should consider taking a motorhome trip around Bosnia and Herzegovina. This Balkan nation, which was once part of Yugoslavia, has emerged from the devastating war of the 1990s as a destination that offers something for everyone. Whether you are interested in stunning landscapes, ancient cities, delicious cuisine, or friendly people, you will find it in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
In this blog post, we will share with you some of the reasons why Bosnia and Herzegovina is a destination you should visit by motorhome, as well as some tips and recommendations on where to go, what to see, and where to stay. We will also tell you about our personal experience of driving a motorhome through this fascinating country as well as the route we took.
BEST TIME TO VISIT BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
For a relatively compact country, Bosnia-Herzegovina has several microclimates, worth considering when deciding the best time to visit. Herzegovina is marked by temperate weather patterns of the Adriatic Sea further west, while the rugged mountains in the east give the region a decidedly alpine feel. Spring typically enjoys the most pleasant temperatures, with warm days that are not overly humid and cool nights. Autumn sees fewer crowds, while the winter months offer excellent – and relatively inexpensive – skiing possibilities.
In general, May through to October is the best time to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina as these are the warmest months but if you’re here mostly for hiking or sightseeing, the cooler spring/fall temperatures might suit you better.
April to June & October - Beat the heat, especially when exploring in Hercegovina from Mostar.
July to August - Accommodation fills up as the cities sizzle in the summer sun.
Mid-January to mid-March - Skiing gets cheaper after the New Year holidays.
Find more details on visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina see our dedicated destination page:
Border Crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 4 July 2023 • 29°
It was a quick and easy border crossing from Montenegro into Bosnia and Herzegovina. The drive along the R429 towards Trebinje was beautiful and the scenery very much reminded us of various regions of South Africa. Much of this area also happens to be a wine region.
Trebinje
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 4 July 2023 • 29°
Our first stop in Bosnia & Herzegovina was Trebinje. Well, to be honest, our first stop was a shopping mall where we spent a couple of hours in the Bingo Hypermarket (we always enjoy browsing such shops in a new country). I even managed to convince Andre to do some clothes shopping (the air conditioning in the shops may have assisted my convincing) and I found a replacement pair of daily walking shoes! We also found the most delicious pear, walnut, and chocolate crumble pie!
It was already late afternoon once we had finished shopping, so we headed just across the road to a gravel parking area for the "Bazen Bregovi" - a lovely man-made city river swimming pool within the Trebišnjica River. This river used to be utilized for hydro exploitation via various hydro-technical interventions and one can still see the hydro wheels on either side of the river at regular intervals. Interestingly, the Trebišnjica River is a “sinking river”. This means that the river loses water as it flows downstream which is the opposite of a more common “gaining stream” which increases in water volume farther downstream as it gains water from local aquifers. The water of a “sinking river” infiltrates into the ground recharging the local groundwater, because the water table is below the bottom of the stream channel. With a total length of 96.5 km above the ground, and roughly another 90 km below the surface, the Trebšnjica River is one of the longest sinking rivers in the world.
Arslanagić / Perović Bridge
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 5 July 2023 • 28°
The following morning we set off early to beat the heat. We walked along the Trebišnjica River towards Trebinje Old Town. We crossed over the “Kameni Most” to the other side of the river where we could follow the river path to the Arslanagić Bridge. The Arslanagić Bridge, also known as the Perović Bridge has been a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina since 25 January 2006. This beautiful bridge was originally built in the 16th century but was later relocated 5km downstream between 1966 and 1972 due to the construction of the hydroelectric power system on the Trebišnjica River. Having scouted the area, this also made for the perfect running route the following morning!
On the hunt for Burek
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 5 July 2023 • 28°
Walking through the old town, we stumbled upon the fresh market "Pijaca" in the square. Despite the good selection of fruits and vegetables, we were on a determined hunt for Burek! Hidden in one of the small side alleys between the market square and the main road, we eventually found the local Burek shop. Just a tiny shop with 2 small tables outside selling only Burek (and of course yogurt from a hidden fridge if you know to ask!).
Gradski Park
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 5 July 2023 • 28°
Having had breakfast like a local, we grabbed an ice cream from "Ice-cream Magistra" and strolled through "Gradski Park" which is also home to the “Cathedral Temple of Holy Transfiguration”. We found it interesting that it was cheaper for us to exchange EUR for the local currency (Convertible Marka) at an exchange office (these can be found everywhere with fixed exchange rates) rather than withdrawing cash at an ATM. This was predominantly because we would only be needing 50 - 100 EUR of cash and the ATM withdrawal fees are relatively high.
Bazen Bregovi
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 5 July 2023 • 28°
With summer suddenly in full swing, we were all too happy to be parked right next to the wonderful man-made city swimming pool within the Trebišnjica River. We are always so appreciative of such incredible free public spaces. Although the area gets bustling during the day, the early mornings and evenings were peaceful with very few people around. Sitting next to the water with a 1 EUR coffee, we quickly decided to spend an extra night here!
Buna River Camp
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 5 July 2023 • 33°
We always love the opportunity to meet fellow travelers. So when Deon & Mathilda (Kukamas Travels) let us know that they were also in Bosnia, we agreed to meet them somewhere south of Mostar. The drive was beautifully scenic, with blue skies and lush green vineyards. Their location pin led us to a lovely shady picnic area along the Buna River where we immediately spotted their awesome IVECO motorhome which they shipped from South Africa! After a much-needed cooldown in the river, we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening exchanging travel stories. The following day we got to work on installing UV film to our cab windows as well as upholstering our footrest. It was both a lazy and productive day!
River Camp Bara
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 7 July 2023 • 32°
We drove into Blagaj expecting to go to the “Parking camping car” which we had read good reviews of. Instead, as we approached the parking area we noticed traffic being redirected and we were kindly informed that the area is used for parking “small cars” during the day and we were welcome to return overnight, but only after 6 pm. The main “Parking u gradu” area was jam-packed full of giant tourist busses and there was a general bit of frenzy in this area. We managed to turn around between all the parked cars and not having enough time to consult Park4Night for alternative spots, we followed the signs we had seen on the way in towards “River Camp Bara”. Driving down a narrow section of road, I was beginning to doubt this decision, but the moment we arrived and were welcomed to park right on the river's edge, we knew we had found a winning spot! 35 BAM (17.50 EUR) per night including electricity, wifi, and a lovely warm shower turned out to be great value for money too and we ended up spending 2 very peaceful nights here. We were grateful for the shade and the icy 7-8 degrees Celsius river was also perfect for cooling down in this crazy intense heat that continued to persist over the next few days.
Mostar by Bus
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 7 July 2023 • 32°
One downside of traveling the Balkans by motorhome is that most cities are not designed to be visited by motorhome. There are some parking areas and even places called “campsites” listed on Park4Night but very few are suitable for motorhomes (perhaps for small vans at best). Most are also disproportionately priced, with 24-hour parking often more expensive than a nice hotel room or Airbnb in the same area! Mostar is one of those cities and we had only heard about people’s painful experiences of trying to find parking. So instead, we decided to stay in Blagaj and take the bus to Mostar. The Blagaj Bus Stop (just a 300m walk from River Camp Bara) is marked with a “Mostar Bus” sign with the bus timetable. You can buy tickets on the bus (with local currency cash) for just 2.10 BAM (1.05 EUR) per person per ride. It was a short 20-minute bus ride to the Bus Station Mostar, but you can get off much earlier if you want to be closer to the Mostar Old Bridge.
Catching the bus back was a little more interesting… there are two “Mostar Bus” signs (with timetables) near the Spanish Square but the bus only passed by one of these stops, the one closest to the entrance of the “Mostar Secondary School” (bright yellow building) and on the M6.1 main road. We didn’t know where the bus was going to stop so we each stood at one and kept an eye on each other while keeping a lookout for the bus. In the end, I had to run so as not to miss the bus! While you’re in this area, take some time to observe the numerous war-damaged and abandoned buildings, many now decorated with graffiti trying to convey uplifting messages upon devastating canvas which are still a stark reminder of the recent turmoil this region faced. You can read more about the “Siege of Mostar” or visit one of the local museums to learn more.
Mostar Old Bridge
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 7 July 2023 • 32°
Mostar is well known for the iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge), a reconstructed medieval arched bridge with a long history. The nearby cobbled alleys are full of trinket shops and market-style stalls mostly catering to the ever-growing tourist market. The Stari Most is a stone single-arch bridge that is considered an exemplary piece of Balkan Islamic architecture which was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1557. Little is known about the construction of the bridge, which is thought to have been made from mortar made with egg whites. All that has been preserved in writing are memories and legends and the name of the builder, Mimar Hayruddin, who was charged under the pain of death to construct a bridge of such unprecedented dimensions. Hayruddin reportedly prepared for his funeral on the day the scaffolding was finally removed from the completed structure.
Upon its completion, it was the widest human-made arch in the world. The 17th Century Ottoman explorer Evliya Çelebi wrote that the bridge "is like a rainbow arch soaring up to the skies, extending from one cliff to the other”. The bridge was destroyed on 9 November 1993 during the Croat–Bosniak War. In October 1998, UNESCO established an international committee of experts to oversee the design and reconstruction work and it was decided to build a bridge as similar as possible to the original, using similar technology and materials.
The reconstructed bridge was inaugurated on 23 July 2004. Today few brave people choose to jump into the Neretva River from the top of the Mostar Old Bridge. Depending on the river level, this is roughly a 25-meter-high fall! If you’re not sure if you’re brave enough, you can practice from the other diving platforms nearby. To get a beautiful view of the bridge (particularly in the morning light), walk across the “Lučki Most” with far fewer tourists than near the bridge. On your way there, try to find the “Kriva ćuprija” (Crooked Bridge) which is said to have been a scale model/trial attempt for the “Stari Most”.
Where To Stay In Mostar
Vrelo Bune
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 8 July 2023 • 34°
Buses filled with tourists flock to Blagaj to snap the iconic photo of the Dervish House, a historic Sufi Monastery “The Tekija” (https://tekijablagaj.ba/en/history/) which was built at the foot of 240m high rocky cliffs and on the water’s edge of the source of the Buna River. Built at the site of an earlier Bogomil sanctuary, history has no precise data except that it was a place of utter cultural and religious importance during the Middle Ages, even before the arrival of the Ottomans. The complex has been damaged on multiple occasions by collapsing rocks caused by the European nettle trees that grow from the cracks of the cliff above the Tekija. Today tourists can visit the museum and restaurant and the Tekija is also used as an active place of worship. We set off bright and early from “River Camp Bara” to beat the tourist buses. It was a lovely 1.5km walk along the river to the “Vrelo Bune”, the source of the cold Buna River flowing past our campsite. The “Vrelo Bune” is a strong spring that emerges from a karstic cavern beneath a high vertical cliff. This region is known for its above-ground and underground hydrography (you can read more about what that means in the “Trebišnjica River” post). The source of the Buna River is one of the largest springs in Europe, producing extremely cold (8 - 10 degrees Celcius) but also extremely clear water. Being there early meant that we were able to sit and enjoy the peacefulness all alone, but it also meant that the sunlight was not yet shining directly on the water to fully illuminate it. Unfortunately, the boat ride into the cave was also not operational (it looked like it had not been used in a while in fact). At least we had many cold water dips in the Buna River from our campsite to make up for it!
Blagaj Fortress
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 9 July 2023 • 35°
Another early morning start (essential in the extreme heatwave we were experiencing) took us on a 2km (uphill) walk to the “Parking Old Town Blagaj Fortress” before starting the short but steep zip-zag hiking trail up to the “Kula Hercega Stjepana Vukcica Kosace”. This is something that very few people take the time to do when visiting Blagaj and to be honest, it may well have been the highlight of our time spent here! Blagaj Fortress is a town-fortress complex that was built on a high, inaccessible karst hill, about 300 meters above the source of the Buna River. The Fortress is now a National monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina and is completely free to access. Despite complaining about the heat up the steep climb, the views from the top more than made up for it.
Bijambare
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 9 July 2023 • 27°
After a long day’s drive from Blagaj, we arrived at the Bijambare Protected Natural Area late Sunday afternoon just as the Bijambare Cave visiting hours were over. We intended to overnight in the parking lot and then visit the Protected Natural Area and Bijambare Cave the following morning. We checked with the staff at the ticket booth that it was alright for us to overnight and they said that it was no problem. They also gave us all the information regarding the 2 km long tourist train ride (1 KM / 0.50 EUR per person per ride), the daily park entrance fee (2 KM / 1 EUR per person), and the Bijambare Cave (3 KM / 1.50 EUR per person). The beautifully scenic but winding narrow roads had been much busier than expected on a Sunday and we were rather exhausted. We found a suitable parking spot and relaxed as the parking area slowly emptied until we were the only remaining vehicle. Just as we were about to go to sleep around 11 pm, we noticed a shadow of someone skulking around the back of the camper. Andre got out to investigate and the mysterious man just slinked away into the bushes completely unperturbed by us. Needless to say, we didn’t feel comfortable at all, so we quickly prepped and departed in search of a better place to spend the night.
Olovo
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 9 July 2023 • 27°
Setting off in the pitch dark along the narrow and winding road, there were no Park4Night options nearby. I scanned Google Maps and found a parking area in the nearby town of Olovo in the vicinity of a school and church. Not having much choice, we were relieved to find it suitable to spend the night. It was after midnight once we got to sleep and after all the anxious activity and knowing that we needed to figure out how to pay for the parking before 7 am the following morning, neither of us slept particularly well. At least there was a bakery very close for some fresh Burek and yogurt in the morning. Olovo looked like a lovely town and we wish we had stayed to see a bit more of the town and surroundings which we had arrived at in the dark the night before. However, at that point we didn’t have much energy and the heatwave was about to intensify. So we hit the road and made our way towards the border.
Goodbye Bosnia & Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina • 10 July 2023 • 30°
We didn't get to see half as much of Bosnia & Herzegovina as we would have liked to and we will return to see more of this beautiful and scenic country. However, with the heatwave predicted to persist for the next 2 weeks, we decided to make a beeline for Serbia, crossing at the Karakaj Border Crossing, and heading north as fast as possible.
Should you visit Bosnia & Herzegovina by Motorhome?
Visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina by motorhome was an unforgettable experience. We enjoyed the stunning scenery, the rich culture, the delicious food, and the friendly people.
If you are looking for a destination that combines natural beauty, cultural diversity, historical heritage, and friendly hospitality, you should consider visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina by motorhome. Bosnia & Herzegovina is a country that has overcome the scars of war and emerged as a hidden gem in the heart of the Balkans.
Here are some reasons why you should explore this country by motorhome:
You can enjoy the stunning scenery of turquoise rivers, green mountains, waterfalls, and lakes, as well as the charming architecture of Ottoman-era towns and Austro-Hungarian buildings. Bosnia & Herzegovina has a rich and varied landscape that offers many opportunities for outdoor activities, such as hiking, rafting, skiing, and cycling.
You can experience the diverse and delicious cuisine of Bosnia & Herzegovina, which reflects its multicultural influences. You can taste the famous ćevapi (grilled minced meat), baklava (sweet pastry with nuts and honey), burek (flaky pastry with cheese or meat), and rakija (fruit brandy), as well as seafood, lamb, and cheese from local producers. You can also enjoy the domaći (house) wine that is sold by the carafe in most restaurants for a very reasonable price.
You can learn about the fascinating and turbulent history of Bosnia & Herzegovina, which has been shaped by different empires, religions, and ethnicities. You can visit the iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge) in Mostar, where you can watch the daring bridge jumpers or try it yourself. You can also visit Sarajevo, the capital city that witnessed the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand which sparked World War I, as well as the longest siege in modern history during the 1990s war. You can explore the Tunnel Museum, where you can see how the people of Sarajevo survived under siege by digging a tunnel under the airport runway.
You can meet the warm and hospitable people of Bosnia & Herzegovina, who will welcome you with open arms and make you feel at home. Bosnians are known for their generosity, kindness, and sense of humor. They will invite you to share a coffee or a rakija, offer you fruit from their gardens, or tell you stories about their lives. They will also help you with any problems or questions you might have on your journey.
You can travel around Bosnia & Herzegovina by motorhome easily and affordably. The country has a good network of roads that connect the main cities and attractions, as well as many scenic routes that offer amazing views. You can find many places to park your motorhome overnight, such as campsites, parking lots, or private properties. You can also find many facilities for motorhome travelers, such as gas stations, supermarkets, repair shops, and tourist information centers. The cost of living in Bosnia & Herzegovina is much lower than in neighboring Croatia or other European countries, so you can save money on food, fuel, and entrance fees.
Bosnia & Herzegovina is a country that has a lot to offer to motorhome travelers who are looking for an authentic and adventurous experience. It is a country that will surprise you with its beauty, diversity, history, and hospitality. It is a country that deserves to be discovered and appreciated by more people.
We felt safe and comfortable in our motorhome, which gave us the freedom and flexibility to travel at our own pace. We highly recommend this trip to anyone who loves adventure, nature, and experiencing new cultures.
Learn more about Bosnia & Herzegovina with our Bosnia & Herzegovina Guide!
