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We're Andre & Lisa, adventurers and experienced budget travelers.
We have over two decades of travel experience and since 2018 have led a full-time nomadic lifestyle.
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ECUADOR TRAVEL GUIDE
Ecuador is a country straddling the equator on South America’s west coast. Its diverse landscape encompasses Amazon jungle, Andean highlands and the wildlife-rich Galápagos Islands. In the Andean foothills at an elevation of 2,850m, Quito, the capital, is known for its largely intact Spanish colonial centre, with decorated 16th- and 17th-century palaces and religious sites, like the ornate Compañía de Jesús Church.
Ecuador offers you the unique opportunity to sit back in your seat and take in the magic of the white sand beaches, the Andean Mountains and the rain forest, all within two days. Take a plane from Quito and in 30 minutes you would have crossed over the snow-clad Andes and reached the Amazon basin.
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- Capital: Quito
- Currency: US dollar ($, USD) / Ecuadorian Centavo coins (Alongside U.S. coins)
- Area: 283,561 km²
- Population: 17,08 million (2018)
- Language: Spanish (official), Amerindian languages (especially Quechua)
- Religion:Roman Catholic 95%
- Electricity: 110-220V/60Hz (USA & European plugs)
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SEASONS AT A GLANCE
Most destinations have different times of the year when they’re more or less popular with tourists.
Peak Season
Shoulder Season
Off Peak Season
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BEST TIME TO VISIT ECUADOR
The best time to travel to Ecuador varies depending on which parts of the country you intend to visit. There’s no real summer and winter in Ecuador, and its weather generally varies by regional geography, with temperatures determined more by altitude than by season or latitude.
The coast has a tropical climate and a rainy season that extends from the end of December to May.
The inter-Andean valleys have a temperate climate and rainy season from October to May and a dry season from June to September. Average monthly temperatures are about 14.5°C in the rainy season and 15°C in the dry season.
The Amazon Region in the eastern part of the country experiences rainfall throughout the year and the average temperature is around 21°C during most months of the year.
The Island region, comprising the Galapagos Islands, has a climate similar to that of the coastal region. Average temperature is about 25-26°C during the rainy season (December to May) and 21-22°C during the dry season (June to November), mainly owing to the influence of the cold Humboldt current.
- June - Swig chicha (indigenous corn beer) at the indigenous festival of Inti Raymi in the northern highlands.
- September - Processions, costumes, fireworks, dancing and Andean music at Latacunga’s Fiesta de la Mamá Negra.
- December - A week of parties in the capital commemorates the founding of Quito.
BEST TIME FOR:
The best time for outdoor activities and climbing in Ecuador is from November to February, although June to August can also be good. Some areas such as Cotopaxi can be climbed year round.
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ECUADOR TRAVEL COSTS
Galapagos aside, Ecuador is pretty cheap. You should be able to travel comfortably on a back-packers budget of US$ 30-40 per day if you’re staying in hostel dorms, eating at food stalls, cooking some of your meals, limiting your drinking, and using local transportation to get around. On a mid-range budget of about US$ 80 per day, you can stay in a private room or budget hotel, eat out all you want at cheap restaurants and street stalls, take taxis when you need to, do tours and visit museums, and enjoy a few drinks out at the bar.
On a high-end budget of US$300+ per day, you can stay in a hotel with a pool and tour the Galapagos. You’ll be able to rent a car or take domestic flights, eat out for every meal, drink as much as you want, and do as many tours as you’d like.
Accommodation is inexpensive in Ecuador. Dorms usually start around US$6 per night, while a private room ranges from US$ 10-20. Wi-Fi is mostly standard, and many hostels also include free breakfast. Budget hotels are only slightly more expensive than hostels, with prices starting around US$ 25 per night which usually include Wi-Fi and a free breakfast. For a hotel with a pool, expect to pay US$30 and up per night. Airbnb is also a great option, and for an entire home or apartment, expect prices to start around USD$ 25 - but in reality averages are closer to USD$ 40 per night.
Meals typically cost between US$ 3-5 for traditional meals such as ilapinchagos (fried potato cakes stuffed with cheese), ceviche, empanadas, arroz con pollo (chicken with rice). You will find stalls on the street with meals for around US$ 1-2. Western style meals will cost around US$ 10-12 and at a mid-range restaurant expect to spend US$ 20 per person.
There are many ways to rack up some great memories in South America without putting a big ding in the budget. Travel in South America is generally cheapest in Bolivia, Ecuador and Colombia. Here are a few tips to find the best deals.
How To Stick to your Budget:
- Slow down - stick around and enjoy a place rather than rushing off to the next destination. The further and faster you go, the more you’ll have to pay.
- Eat like a local at street stalls or markets. Many restaurants have almuerzos, cheap lunches from a set menu. These are usually just a couple of dollars and might even include a drink!
- Opt for dorm rooms or share a room with a buddy.
- Stay in fan (non-air-con) rooms with shared bathroom.
- Travel overland instead of flying.
- Snorkel instead of dive.
- Choose small towns instead of big cities.
- Be discriminating about which sites and national parks to visit.
- Factor in more free days: on the beach and exploring neighbourhoods.
- Avoid package deals (transportation, lodging, touring).
- Know how much local transportation should cost and bargain accordingly.
- Avoid surprises by negotiating taxi fares before getting inside.
- Don’t forget to factor in the costs of visas.
- Track all of your daily expenses so you know your average costs.
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TRAVEL TIPS FOR ECUADOR
With the exception of flying to the Galápagos Islands, internal flights are generally fairly affordable, rarely exceeding $100 for a one-way ticket. All mainland flights are under an hour and often provide you with incredible views over the Andes.
Ecuadorian taxis come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but they are all yellow. Most taxis have a lit ‘taxi’ sign on top or a ‘taxi’ sticker on the windshield. In Quito and other bigger cities, licensed taxis have an orange or orange-striped license plate, with ID numbers clearly marked on the sides. Always ask the fare beforehand, or you may be overcharged. Meters are rarely seen, except in Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca. In rural areas, a taxi might actually just be a pick-up truck.
Uber is available in certain parts (as of writing): Ambato, Guayaquil, Ibarra, Machala, Manta, Quito, Salinas and Santo Domingo de Los Colorado.
Buses are the primary means of transport for most Ecuadorians, guaranteed to go just about anywhere. They can be exciting, cramped, comfy, smelly, fun, scary, sociable and gruelling, depending on your state of mind, where you’re going and who’s driving. Most major cities have a main terminal terrestre (bus terminal), although some towns have a host of private terminals – and you’ll have to go to the right one to catch the bus going where you need to go. Most stations are within walking distance or a short cab ride of the town’s center. Smaller towns are occasionally served by passing buses, in which case you have to walk from the highway into town, usually only a short walk since only the smallest towns lack terminals. Most routes travel along the common backpacking routes, but also into more remote areas. Long-distance buses typically cost from USD$ 1-2 per hour.
Driving a car or motorcycle in Ecuador presents its challenges, with potholes, blind turns, and insanely fast bus and truck drivers. Infrastructure has dramatically improved over the last years though, with new roads, bridges, and better road signage, making road travel much smoother.
Ecuador’s rail system is not a practical way to get around the country, although there are day trips along routes that are specifically designed for tourists. The route from Alausi along La Nariz del Diabo (The Devil’s Nose) is one of the most popular, thanks to its terrifyingly steep descent (See map for details).
- Quito - Delve into the picturesque Old Town, its cobblestone streets crisscrossing one of Latin America’s finest colonial centers.
- La Oriente - Stay in a jungle lodge, take wildlife-watching excursions and visit indigenous villages.
- Galápagos Islands - Snorkel with sea lions, spot penguins, and face off with gigantic tortoises.
- Otavalo - Haggle over handmade treasures in one of South America’s biggest open-air markets.
- Mindo - Hike in cloud forests, cool off in waterfalls and go ziplining over the canopy.
- Quilotoa Loop - Trek past topaz lakes and peaceful villages high up in the Andes.
- Parque Nacional Machalilla - Spot massive humpback whales on their annual migration.
Thanks to its compact size, travelling around Ecuador is easy and relatively fast, with few places more than a day’s bus ride from the capital. Unlike the attractions found in larger South American countries such as Brazil, Argentina and Chile, Ecuador’s contrasting regions and highlights are within easy reach of each other, allowing for a more flexible approach to route-planning.
RECOMMENDED ITINERARY
TWO WEEKS
Begin your trip in Quito. Spend at least two days soaking up the architectural gems of the Old Town, then make your way 2½ hours north to Otavalo for its famous market (best on Saturdays). Spend the night there and fit in a hike to the stunning lakes of Laguna de Cuicocha or Lagunas de Mojanda. On you fourth day, travel west (via Quito) to the lush cloud forests of Mindo. Overnight in a riverside or mountaintop lodge, then return to Quito for a flight to Cuenca, the colonial jewel of the south. Spend two days exploring the 500-year-old churches and visiting the fairy-tale-like setting of Parque Nacional Cajas, 30km to the west. If you have time, visit the Inca ruins of Ingapirca before continuing to Guayaquil for a flight to the Galápagos. Spend four days there, wildlife-watching and island-hopping. For the final part, fly back to Guayaquil and onward (via Quito) to Coca, gateway to the Amazon. Spend three nights at a jungle lodge on the Lower Río Napo, one of the best places to see Ecuador’s Amazonian wildlife.
QUITO & SURROUNDS
A capital city high in the Andes, Quito is dramatically situated, squeezed between mountain peaks whose greenery is concealed by the afternoon mist. Modern apartment buildings and modest concrete homes creep partway up the slopes, and busy commercial thoroughfares lined with shops and choked with traffic turn into peaceful neighbourhoods on Sundays. Warm and relaxed, traditional Ecuadorian Sierra culture – overflowing market stands, shamanistic healers, fourth-generation hat-makers – mixes with a vibrant and sophisticated culinary and nightlife scene.
Quito makes a great base for exploring the region’s striking geography and biodiversity, with excellent day trips available to volcanoes and remote forest reserves. South America’s most fabled market (Otavalo), the sublime Cotopaxi volcano, the cloud forests around Mindo and the Papallacta hot springs (en route to the Oriente) can also be visited in a long day trip.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS
Follow the snaking Panamericana past florid Cayambe to the vibrant market town of Otavalo and surrounding indigenous villages. As the spine of the Andes bends north from Quito, volcanic peaks punctuate valleys blanketed by flower farms and sugarcane fields. This is Ecuador’s beating heart and a cradle of Andean culture: artisans produce their wares using methods unaltered for generations, and visitors find some of the country’s best deals here, on everything from leather goods to traditional weavings. High-altitude landscapes surrender to steamy lowlands in the west, a rich transitional zone where coffee plantations flourish in the spectacular but politically contested Intag Valley. Further south, laid-back Mindo is a base for bird-watching, hiking and river romps. Remote jungle lodges are scattered around the region for those looking to retreat deeper into nature. Wherever you go, off-the-beaten-path adventures, sustainable community-tourism initiatives and volunteering opportunities are close by.
Every Saturday the world seems to converge on the bustling Ecuadorian town of Otavalo in the Andes, where a huge market spreads from the Plaza de Ponchos throughout the town. While the crowds can be a drag and the quality is immensely changeable, the choice is enormous and you’ll find some incredible bargains here among the brightly coloured rugs, traditional crafts, clothing, Tigua folk art and quality straw hats. Nearby, the squawks and squeals of livestock drown out the chatter of Kichwa-speaking farmers at Otavalo’s equally famous animal market.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN ECUADOR
More location information and points of interest are available in the above map
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
The rooftop of Ecuador offers up more adventure per square meter than most places on earth. There are heavenly volcanoes, glacier-capped peaks, high-arching grassy plains, surprisingly quaint colonial cities, bucolic haciendas and precipitous green valleys that take you from highlands down past waterfalls and indigenous villages to the heavy-aired environs of the Amazon Basin. Most trips to the area will include a couple of days in the region’s exceptional national parks and reserves, including Los Ilinizas, Cotopaxi, Llanganates, Chimborazo and Sangay. The Quilotoa Loop brings hiking travellers through traditional indigenous communities to an impossibly deep crater lake. And there are rail adventures and crafts markets, plus plenty of tropical experiences in the verdant valley leading down to the ever-popular town of Baños. In Baños, you can take a scenic DIY bike ride from highland to jungle, stopping at waterfalls along the way. In the evening, recover with a soak in the hot springs followed by dinner and microbrews at one of the town’s enticing eateries.
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
Still mountainous, but also more benign, the southern spine of the Ecuadorian Andes ushers intrepid travellers down lush valleys that hide some treats: pastel-hued colonial towns and remote villages where indigenous cultures thrive. Veering from chilly, elfin woodland to humid lowland forest, the region is home to a huge diversity of wildlife and landscapes; make time for a trip to at least one of the region’s national parks. Most journeys begin in Cuenca, a classic South American traveller hub with one of the continent’s best-preserved colonial centers. Then it’s a choose-your-own-adventure romp through seldom-visited ancient settlements and untrammelled wild areas toward vibrant, museum-rich Loja and balmy Vilcabamba. From here, forays begin into stark ochre hills, along verdant slopes where Ecuador’s best coffee is cultivated and down into sticky semitropical forest.
THE ORIENTE
The vast tract of land locally known as Amazonía holds plenty of drama. Rivers churn from the Andes into the dense, sweltering rainforest on course for the Amazon basin. Along the way, ancient indigenous tribes call riverbanks home and astounding wildlife can be glimpsed. Those lucky enough to reach the remoter jungle lodges (several hours downriver from the nearest towns) will be able to fish for piranhas on silent blackwater lakes, hear the menacing boom of howler monkeys, spot the shining eyes of caiman at night-time and – perhaps – spy one of those elusive bigger mammals such as a tapir or jaguar. Exploring the Oriente gives you the unforgettable experience of seeing the natural world up close and personal. But this region is not just jungle. Ecuador’s best thermal spa, most spectacular waterfall, most active volcanoes and most formidable white-water rapids also await.
PACIFIC COAST & LOWLANDS
While not a high priority for most travellers, Ecuador’s coast offers a mix of surf towns, sleepy fishing villages, whale-watching in the south and Afro-Ecuadorian culture in the north. Make sure to keep in mind the weather as although December to May is the rainy season, it is also the sunniest; the sun blazes both before and after the afternoon downpour. June through November has mild days (and chilly nights), but it’s often overcast. (See map for more details).
GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS
The Galápagos Islands may just inspire you to think differently about the world. This is not the Bahamas and these aren’t typical tropical paradises; in fact, most of the islands are devoid of vegetation and some look more like the moon than Hawaii. However, more humans live here than is commonly assumed, and there’s a surprising level of development in the islands’ towns, mostly geared toward the thriving tourism industry. This isolated group of volcanic islands and its extremely fragile ecosystem has taken on almost-mythological status as a showcase of biodiversity. Yet you don’t have to be an evolutionary biologist or an ornithologist to appreciate one of the few places left on the planet where the human footprint is kept to a minimum.
There are 13 major islands (ranging in area from 14 sq km to 4588 sq km), six small islands (1 sq km to 5 sq km) and scores of islets, of which only some are named. Five of the islands are inhabited. About half the residents live in Puerto Ayora, on Isla Santa Cruz in the middle of the archipelago. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on Isla San Cristóbal (the easternmost island) is second in importance to Puerto Ayora when it comes to tourism. The other inhabited islands are Isla Isabela (the largest island, accounting for half the archipelago’s land mass), with the small, increasingly popular town of Puerto Villamil; Isla Baltra; and Isla Floreana, with Puerto Velasco Ibarra. The remaining islands are not inhabited but are visited on tours. (See the above map for more detail). Take note of the chunky park fee and transfer control fee - all payable in cash.
WHAT TO EAT IN ECUADOR
Ecuador has eating options for most palates, especially in Guayaquil and Quito, where international cuisine, fast food and most styles of South American dishes can be found. Ecuadorian specialties vary depending on which region you find yourself in, but one thing’s for sure – the whole country loves plantain. Typical plates include meat or fish, with a choice of carbs plus vegetables or salad. It’s common to be served double carbs (commonly rice, with beans, lentils, plantain or potatoes) with most meals.
Ceviche (fresh, raw fish, cured in fresh citrus juice) is one of the most popular dishes in Ecuador – you’ll find it everywhere from street stalls and hole-in-the-wall restaurants to five-star hotels. Unlike Peru’s better-known “dry” version, Ecuadorian ceviche is served in a watery broth, typically consisting of lime juice and/or the liquid the seafood was prepared in. While shrimp and fish are the most popular versions, you’ll also find vegetarian ceviche made with hearts of palm or lupini beans (chocho).
FOOD ESSENTIALS:
Canelazo - Aguardiente (sugarcane alcohol) with hot cider and cinnamon, distilled and warmed perfect for Andean nights.
Ceviche - Ecuador’s take on sushi, but 'cooked' just a bit.
Chifle - Because banana chips are awesome.
Chugchucaras - Deep fried pork, mote, potatoes, fried plantains, empanadas, and pork rinds.
Pajaro Azul - Herb-infused aguardiente that will have you seeing stars.
LGBTQ IN ECUADOR
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WHERE TO STAY IN ECUADOR
There is no shortage of places to stay in Ecuador, but during major festivals or the night before market day, accommodations can be tight, so plan ahead. Most hotels have single-room rates, although during high season some beach towns charge for the number of beds in the room, regardless of the number of people checking in. In popular resort areas, high season prices (running from June to August and mid-December to January) are about 30% higher than the rest of the year.
When visiting Ecuador for the first time, you'll be greeted by diverse landscapes, from the Amazon rainforest to the Andes mountains and the stunning Galapagos Islands. Here are recommendations for areas to stay, along with accommodation options for each category: budget, mid-range, and luxury.
Where to stay in Quito:
As the capital city of Ecuador, Quito offers a perfect blend of historical charm, cultural richness, and breathtaking landscapes, making it an excellent base for exploring the Andean region.
Budget: Casa Joaquin Boutique Hotel: Situated in the Mariscal district of Quito, Casa Joaquin Boutique Hotel offers affordable rooms with modern amenities. Guests praise its stylish decor, friendly atmosphere, and convenient location near restaurants and bars.
Mid-range: Hotel Patio Andaluz - Situated in the heart of the old town, this mid-range hotel features colonial-style architecture, spacious rooms, and a tranquil courtyard, providing an authentic experience within walking distance of landmarks like San Francisco Church.
Luxury: Swissotel Quito - Offering luxurious accommodations, gourmet dining options, spa facilities, and panoramic views of the city and mountains, this upscale hotel ensures a lavish stay in Quito's modern district.
Tips: Look for accommodations in the historic center or La Mariscal neighborhood for convenient access to attractions, restaurants, and nightlife. Booking directly through hotel websites or reputable booking platforms can sometimes yield better rates, especially during the offseason (May to September).
Where to stay in the Galapagos Islands (Santa Cruz):
The Galapagos Islands boast unparalleled biodiversity and unique wildlife encounters, making it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers.
Budget: El Descanso del Guia - Located in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, this budget-friendly hotel offers air-conditioned rooms, an outdoor swimming pool and is a short distance from attractions such as El Garrapatero Beach.
Mid-range: Hotel Galapagos Tortuga Bay - Situated in the heart of Puerto Ayora, this mid-range hotel provides comfortable rooms, a swimming pool, and easy access to restaurants, shops, and the waterfront promenade.
Luxury: Royal Palm Hotel Galapagos - Offering luxury villas surrounded by lush gardens, gourmet dining options, a spa, and personalized service, this upscale hotel provides an exclusive retreat on Santa Cruz Island.
Tips: Accommodations in the Galapagos Islands can be pricey due to high demand and limited availability, so it's advisable to book well in advance, especially during peak seasons (June to September and December to January). Consider visiting during the shoulder seasons for more affordable rates and fewer crowds.
Where to stay in Cuenca:
Cuenca is renowned for its well-preserved colonial architecture, vibrant cultural scene, and proximity to natural wonders such as Cajas National Park, offering visitors a charming and authentic Ecuadorian experience.
Budget: Hostal Yakumama - Located in the historic center, this budget-friendly hostel offers clean rooms, a rooftop terrace with panoramic views, and a central location near landmarks like Plaza de San Sebastián and Parque Calderón.
Mid-range: Hotel Victoria - Situated in a colonial building, this mid-range hotel features elegant rooms, a courtyard garden, and a restaurant serving local cuisine, providing a comfortable stay within walking distance of Cuenca's main attractions.
Luxury: Mansion Alcazar Boutique Hotel - Offering luxurious accommodations in a historic mansion, gourmet dining options, a spa, and personalized service, this upscale hotel ensures an unforgettable experience in the heart of Cuenca.
Tips: Accommodations in Cuenca tend to be more affordable compared to Quito and the Galapagos Islands, but it's still advisable to book in advance, especially during holidays and festivals. Exploring accommodations in the historic center allows for easy access to attractions, restaurants, and cultural experiences.
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